My grandmother, my father’s mother, was diagnosed with cancer when I was only a child. She was told she had only months to live. She wrote a note to the family and toured the world, I assume saying her last goodbyes to friends, before settling into a house on an island in the middle of the Caribbean Sea known as St. Martin or Sint Maarten depending on which side you were on.
And so it was – paradise, that is. So much so, that my aunt lived there at the time as well along with two of my cousins, both near my age. They invited me to visit their school so they could introduce their American cousin to their friends, but I couldn’t fit it in. There was simply too much else to do, like dodging incoming airplanes or sitting on the beach.
We let the wind take us to another nearby island where engines and bits of WWII fighter planes still dot the landscape. To both my amusement and embarrassment, we also learned that particular island also happened to be a stop for a nude cruise, giving a whole new meaning to the term, history buff.
We spent the rest of my visit scuba diving where I was given the nickname ‘she who sings with the fishes,’ as I had come up with the brilliant (and I now know completely ridiculous) idea I could extend the oxygen in my tank by humming. That’s also how I learned sound travels farther in water.
I have beautiful memories of that trip and always intended to go back and share it with the family. Maybe we could go one year when our work isn’t so crazy or the next when the kids aren’t quite so young. One cousin still lives there. We had plenty of time to visit.
But a category five hurricane with 185 mph winds decided to beat us to it.
Wednesday, September 6th, I spend a good portion of the day stalking the social media feeds of my extended family. Hurricane Irma had made landfall. My aunt had lost contact with her son, my island cousin, around six am. His brother, now stateside, forwarded links to island webcams showing a vaguely tree-like shadow shaking in an otherwise gray nothingness. The image wasn’t exactly comforting.
I clicked on another link. This one had a slightly clearer picture and I was relieved to an extent until I saw a notice posted above the video. It was only a loop of earlier footage, taken prior to complete loss of power and connectivity.
Nearly the entire day passed before we got the news – my island cousin had checked in from the other side of the storm. He’d lost his roof but helped rescue another person stuck in what was left of their home. Looters roamed, but he was making his way across the island with a chainsaw and a 4×4. He was okay, though the same couldn’t be said of the island I’d once known.
In the US mainland, we waited as the hurricane hit Antigua and Barbuda, Saint Barthelemy, Anguilla, Saint Kitts and Nevis, the US Virgin Islands of St. Croix, St. Thomas and St. John, the British Virgin Islands as well. Then Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, which never seems to be able catch a break, the Bahamas, Turks, Caicos, and Cuba too, resulting in the deaths of 68 thus far [82 as of September 15th] and rendering thousands homeless. (Source: Don’t forget about us: Irma’s desperate Caribbean survivors, CNN & Irma’s Staggering Toll: At Least 68 Dead, Billions In Damage From the Caribbean to the U.S., The Weather Channel)
When the storm finally arrived on the mainland, no longer a category five, some people said they were unimpressed. However, I say, when a hurricane comes a-calling but decides at the last minute to turn away, the word you are looking for is grateful. Because as the last few days proved, when a storm like this comes to your door, it is anything but another day in paradise.
For those wishing to do more, I would encourage you to check out the facebook group SXMabroad which is a group whose goal is to A) provide a consolidated list of reputable organization to for the purpose of financial donations B) organize groups of people who have the time and ability go and help re-build and C) do whatever this group can to encourage tourism to rebound as quickly as appropriate.

Terrible and terrifying wasnt it? Glad your cousin is safe and hope he gets the help he needs
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I’m still watching the news down there with some concern. The airport however is partially cleared now so aid can be delivered.
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Nice Allie
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Thanks, Dad. I hope you remember that trip as fondly as I do.
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Sure do!
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That video is chilling, Allie. I used to live on the east coast and have visited many of those islands. The fond memories remain. What a tragedy. I’m glad your family is okay, and thanks for the facebook link. It will come in handy.
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I watched that link a few times too many. I can’t imagine what it must be like there right now, and hope the recovery is quick.
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I worry that this isn’t the end of it. As the oceans warm forecasters predict bigger and more frequent storms. It’s devastating for those who live there.
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It won’t be the last one. I saw a quote attributed to Elizabeth I the other day – “The past cannot be cured.” All we can do is be aware and prepared for the future.
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I hope you Aunt is OK too. These storms are both a great challenge and an opportunity to come together to help each other as your cousin is doing. Kudos,
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They do teach us a lot about ourselves and what really is important. My aunt is understandably worried, but at least he’s been able to check in a few more times.
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It sounds like they’re ok. Hugs and prayers..
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Thank you for both.
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I’ve never been anywhere in the Caribbean so the damage seems more dreamy than real to me. I appreciate how personal this disaster is for you, and wish that I could have visited these islands before all of this. I agree with you about how when the hurricane hit the mainland, the word people were looking for was “grateful.” How could they not know this?
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As you said, the damage doesn’t seem real until you see it in your backyard, and I hope for their sake, it never is.
Hurricane season ends in November.
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I spent about a week on St. Maarten sometime ago. I remember the old town being being quaint and colonial. Such a shame. Glad your kin are okay.
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I wouldn’t be surprised if up until a couple weeks ago it looked similar to how you remembered. I will be watching the rebuilding efforts for sure and thank you.
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That was great. Thanks for your perspective. Glad your cousin is okay and well prepared with that 4×4 and chainsaw. (Did you see the vid of the nun in full habit chainsawing a tree? Awesomeness.)
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I did see that. She was awesome and made me smile
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“‘it’s just another G-D day in paradise.’ Except she used the full phrase. My grandmother was not one to adjust her style for children.”–Lol . . . your grandmother sounds like my dad 🙂
“However, I say, when a hurricane comes a-calling but decides at the last minute to turn away, the word you are looking for is grateful.”–Yes! So well said!
Your description of your visit as a child is so perfect . . . and the contrast of the storm. I love your writing, Allie. You say things so well. And I’m really glad your family is okay.
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Thank you! It was one of those trips that stick with you your entire life. Thank you for the well wishes as well. My aunt is traveling there soon to help with the rebuilding efforts and see my cousin first hand, but hurricane season is not yet over, so now I can worry about two.
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You had me with your first words and I read each sentence about your grandmother with awe. The first lesson – why do we wait for a death sentence to do the things we really want to do? YAY for her, touring the world and then settling on a gorgeous island. YAY for her for continuing to live! Then that lesson moved on to the next. We wait to visit family/friends/places we think will always be there. “When I’m not so busy,” “When the job calms down,” “When the kids get older,” etc. From the photos/news I’ve seen of St. Martin/Sint Maarten, there’s not much left down there now. Beyond sad and disheartening. I pray that they can build again to the gorgeous island it once was.
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That’s exactly how I feel. There are still expenses to consider but I am trying not to waste quite as much time waiting for the perfect time as it rarely comes. Thanks for the encouragement.
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This is a very interesting and heartfelt read, Ally. I have never experienced anything like a hurricane, we don’t have these in South Africa, and I have found the coverage quite terrifying.
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I’d love to visit South Africa one day. A category 1 or 2 typically are troublesome but not terrifying as long as you prepare properly but a 4 or 5 is nothing to dismiss, especially when the storm is wider than whole states. One of the projections originally had it coming to NC where I live, but then it shifted and after Florida hit Georgia instead. We still felt the rain and heard the thunder and we were six hours away from the storm’s center.
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Really scary, Allie, Nature is very powerful.
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I love your grandmother’s attitude (not to mention her no-holds-barred approach to life). How long did she end up living?
Also, I agree with you. A hurricane is one of nature’s most impressive and awe-inspiring events. How can you NOT be impressed with it?!
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She lived to age 77 and at her funeral my uncle read her letter to the family. It was sad and full of goodbyes. There were no dry eyes at the end. Then he pulled out another letter, written at least a year later which talked about her gratitude for being given extra time as well as words of encouragement. We cried some more. He opened a third letter dated at least another year later if not longer which began, “Well, I’m still here…” and continued in a tone I’d come to recognize as pure Grandma Mac. We didn’t exactly smile, but it was comforting in the way the others weren’t.
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Nice piece, Allie. I have only experienced the peripheral effects of a hurricane (most notably, I recall riding out Hurricane Diane in 1955 at the suburban NEW JERSEY home of my aunt and uncle). I cannot imagine the fear of those caught up in the full force winds and flooding. My heart goes out to those who have suffered so much, and I urge everyone to contribute whatever they can to the relief efforts. Stay tuned, unfortunately there is more of the hurricane season to come.
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Thank you Joe, hope you are doing well and thank you for your support. As you said, another category 5 is set to barrel through the Caribbean, preventing recovery efforts and leaving those who have already experienced catastrophic loss without many options. This continues to be one difficult season.
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yeah, a wise lesson. Like the ocean, a hurricane shouldn’t be sniffed at. Glad your cousin is okay ❤
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Thank you. I haven’t heard from him since Maria, but am hopeful he was spared further damage and that relief efforts have continued.
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Allie, What a thoughtful article on such a relevant and heartbreaking topic. Thanks for the links, as reputable organizations are key to getting help and supplies where they’re needed. I hope your family is OK and that all of the areas devastated by these hurricanes can recover with the outpouring of support from those who can help.
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Thank you. I haven’t heard from him since Maria passed through and am trying not to worry. I was thrilled to learn that Royal Caribbean cruise lines have decided to cancel scheduled tours and instead are redirecting their fleet of boats to aid in evacuation and aid delivery efforts. I know that there may be some tourists who are upset that their vacation plans have been disrupted but I hope that under the circumstances they will feel somewhat mollified to know their slight inconvenience is helping so many.
Tourism is a huge part of their economy and so once it is structurally safe, one of the best ways people will be able to show their support is traveling and supporting the local businesses first hand, until then here is a link to the island’s hospitality trade association who are coordinating relief efforts http://shta-relief.sx/
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That video is chilling, Allie. I used to live on the east drift and have gone by a large number of those islands.
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I thought so as well. I watched it over and over on a loop all morning the day of the storm. I couldn’t look away.
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